Custard-Based Ice Cream

Rival Wooden Ice Cream Maker

By Cat, Jun 2008 (Photo, right, from Viewpoints.com (1))

• See also: 1. Puddings & Frozen Desserts Menu; 2. Ice Cream Basics; 3. Crème Anglaise (Stove-Top Custard Sauce)
• Includes: 1. Vanilla Custard Ice Cream; 2. Chocolate Custard Ice Cream; 3. Caramel Custard Ice Cream

Today’s commercial ice cream is nothing like old-fashioned ice cream from the local dairy. Today’s version includes a lot of questionable additives and highly processed ingredients which I prefer to avoid. Instead, I make my own.

Vanilla Custard Ice Cream

This recipe, adapted from Nourishing Traditions, by Sally Fallon with Mary G. Enig, PhD. (2), makes 1 quart, and is an example of  ‘eggs and cream’ type of ice cream (but it does not involve cooking a custard first, although you could certainly do that).  By not cooking the custard, you retain the “raw” benefits of the cream and eggs.

The original recipe calls for ½ cup maple syrup, but I prefer to use stevia and raw honey (or you could use ½ cup raw honey and omit the stevia).  Warming the honey in a hot water bath makes it easier to incorporate into the eggs. But don’t warm above 90 degrees or you’ll lose the “raw” benefits of the honey.

The optional arrowroot acts as an additional emulsifier and thickener (in lieu of cooking the custard).  It also provides nutrient value, especially calcium and trace minerals.

Starting with this basic recipe, you can add other ingredients, such as fruits, nuts, chocolate, coffee, liqueurs, or substitute different flavor extracts (instead of vanilla).

Ingredients & Equipment:

•  ½ cup maple syrup or raw, local honey (OR ¼ tsp stevia extract powder plus 1 Tbsp honey)
• 3 egg yolks ( or 1 whole egg + 1 egg yolk)
• 1 Tbsp real vanilla extract
• 1 Tbsp arrowroot (optional)
• 3 cups raw cream (never use ultra-pasteurized)
• Equipment:
• large bowl
• egg whip
• ice cream freezer
• ice and rock salt if using an old-fashioned freezer

Method:

1. Place honey into a small bowl and set in a pan of hot water to warm; stir stevia into honey, if using, as it warms.
2. Beat egg yolks (or egg/yolk mixture) with whip until frothy.  Beat in the stevia/honey, vanilla, and arrowroot until blended.  Stir in cream.
3. Freeze in a 1.5 – 2-quart old-fashioned ice cream freezer (or 1-quart Donvier freezer), according to manufacturer’s directions. See also Freezing the Ice Cream (in the Ice Cream Basics post).
4. For ease of serving, transfer to an empty yogurt container with lid, and store in freezer.

Chocolate Ice Cream

This custard-method recipe is adapted from Chocolate-Agave Ice Cream (3). I don’t recommend using agave nectar (10 Tbsp in original recipes), as it has too much fructose; instead, I prefer to use a mix of  stevia and honey. I also provide the sugar equivalent as Rapadura sugar, should you wish to use that.

If you cannot find raw cream, use a good quality Organic pasteurized table cream; or you could use a mix of milk and cream. But do not use ultra-pasteurized milk or cream.

I like to use cocoa powder that is a mix of regular and Dutch-process cocoa; and of course, free-trade Organic.

Makes 1 quart; not yet tested.

Ingredients & Equipment:

• 1 cup Rapadura sugar (or ¼ tsp stevia extract powder plus 4 – 5 Tbsp raw honey)
• 1 Tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice
• 2 oz unsweetened (bakers) chocolate
• ⅓ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
• 5 egg yolks (or 2 whole eggs+ 2 yolks)
• 1 Tbsp arrowroot (optional)
• pinch unrefined sea salt
• 3 cups raw cream, divided portions
• Equipment:
• small heavy-bottomed saucepan
• double boiler
• large bowl
• egg whip
• strainer
• ice cream freezer
• ice and rock salt if using an old-fashioned freezer

Method:

1. If using stevia: Whisk stevia into orange juice and let rest until dissolves. Add  1 ½ cups cream, whisking to combine.
2. Finely chop (or grate) unsweetened chocolate. Add to honey or sugar in saucepan. Warm over lowest possible heat (using simmer plate if necessary), stirring constantly, until chocolate is melted. Remove from heat and transfer to large bowl. Set aside.
3. In same saucepan, add stevia/orange juice/cream mixture. Whisk in cocoa powder. Cook over moderate heat until begins to bubble. Simmer 30 seconds, whisking constantly to break up any clumps of cocoa powder. Remove from heat; add to honey/chocolate mixture; stir to combine.
4. Pour remaining 1 ½ cups cream, pinch of salt, and arrowroot (optional) into top of double boiler. Warm.
5. Beat egg yolks (or egg/yolk mixture) with whip until frothy, then add the warm cream, whisking constantly.
6. Return to double boiler. Cook, stirring constantly, until becomes steamy and thickens (about 170 – 175°F).
7. Pour through a strainer into bowl of chocolate mixture. Stir and allow to cool a bit.
   Whiz in blender until smooth and velvety. Chill thoroughly in fridge.
8. Freeze in a 1.5 – 2-quart old-fashioned ice cream freezer or 1-quart Donvier freezer, according to manufacturer’s directions. See also Freezing the Ice Cream (in the Ice Cream Basics post).
9. For ease of serving, transfer to an empty yogurt container with lid, and store in freezer.

Caramel Custard Ice Cream

This recipe is adapted from the brochure that came with my Donvier freezer (4). I’ve not yet tested this.

Makes 1 pint.

Ingredients & Equipment:

• ½ cup Rapadura sugar or white cane sugar
• 2 egg yolks
• ¾ cup raw or pasteurized milk (not ultra-pasteurized)
• ¾ cup raw or pasteurized cream (not ultra-pasteurized)
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• Equipment:
• cast iron skillet
• heavy-bottomed saucepan
• large bowl
• ice cream freezer

Method:

1. Heat sugar slowly in skillet until melted and light brown, stirring constantly; do not let it scorch.
2. Scald milk in saucepan, then pour into the sugar. Cook to dissolve the sugar.
3. Beat yolks in large bowl, then add hot milk and sugar mixture slowly, stirring constantly. Return to saucepan and cook slowly until mixture thickens.
4. Cool, then add cream and vanilla.
5. Refrigerate overnight, then freeze in a 1.5 – 2-quart old-fashioned ice cream freezer or 1-quart Donvier freezer, according to manufacturer’s directions. See also Freezing the Ice Cream (in the Ice Cream Basics post).

References:

1. Rival’s Old-Fashioned Ice Cream maker: cdn1.viewpoints.com/pro-product-photos/000/006/361/300/1333477378-769921_full.jpg
2. Nourishing Traditions, by Sally Fallon with Mary G. Enig, PhD.; see Beloved Cookbooks for more about this book.
3. Chocolate-Agave Ice Cream (davidlebovitz.com/archives/2007/08/sugarfree_choco.html)
4. Donvier Brochure